The Bowlsworld Blog

The Bowls Manufacturing Process

2010-02-14T03:07:00.000-08:00

Step 1. Black Bowls are made from a Phenol Formaldehyde grey powder, with a dye added to make them black. Some coloured bowls are made from Melamine, which starts life as crystals, the crystal being the colour of the bowl, so the colour is right through the bowl, this is extremely strong, and offer very good non-fade characteristics. Others are made by adding a dye to their powder.

Step 2. The raw materials are then weighed very carefully for the various models and sizes. using a high frequency pre heater, the granules are then melted down to form a putty like substance, which is then poured into a mould, which resembles the shape of the bowl. Different moulds are used for various models.

Step 3. A 150 ton press then compresses the material, which squeeze out excess gases & liquids from the mould. Some of this excess remains around the bowl, which is then trimmed off with a hot knife later in the process, this is the ring that can sometimes be seen around the running surface of the bowl. Bowls are moulded in one piece, lugs still remain on the bowl for the next part of tooling process, however the moulding must first cure, and this can take up to 10 days. Once cured the bowl is ultrasonically tested to check for air bubbles (trapped gases) which if found means the bowl is completely discarded as waste.

Step 4. After this important process the bowls goes to the diamond bit lathe, once mounted a specific computer programme for the bias of this particular bowl is punched in, and the bias of this particular bowl is cut to shape in seconds with extreme precision.

Step 5. Now the bowls will ave either dimple or rings cut in. A cutting/drilling machine holds the bowl by suction, so the rings or dimples can be cut or drilled in with the utmost accuracy. The bowl is now begining to resembe a bowl, but is un polished. An experienced highly trained person now matches 4 bowls for weight, there is a tolerance of only 3gms between the 4 bowls permitted, the bowls are then marked with a code, and travel around the factory as a set.

Step 6. At this point the first table test occures, to make sure the bowls conform to the World Bowls Master Bowl test. The bowls are then adjusted on the lathe, if found to be under or over biased, but this is very rare occurance, due to the accuracy of the compuerised lathes that are now used.

Step 7. After this important test the bowls are then placed in a big drum filled with silocone chips, the drum gently rotates, gently polishing the bowls to a high gloss finish.

Step 8. Then comes the engraving, a lazer machine then engrave all 4 bowls at the same time according to a pre-loaded programme, the bowls are sent to the paintshop for painting. A further table test is then carried out to check against the World Bowls Master Bowl, after which the bowls are then packaged and ready for sale.

Learning to Bowl & Improving your Game (Lesson 1)

2010-02-13T03:20:00.000-08:00

You will no doubt be bombarded with advice when you are new to the game. Well wishing experienced bowlers are always eager to pass on their own methods of doing something, some things will be very helpful, some may not, but they all mean well, but they forget that there is a lot to take in on your first few games, and getting too much advice can confuse, as no doubt you have already found. Of course you can enrol on a organized coaching scheme, if there is one being held locally, but if not you will be left to pick up the game as you go along from our bowling friends. We will not go into the many laws and rules of the game here, as they can be found on the various governing bodies sites, instead we will look at arming you with the basics to get started, and improving your game.
It has been said in the past, I think it was the Great man himself David Bryant that 'Bowls is 10% skill and 90% intangibles', this may sound like it is a game of luck, but this could not be further from the truth. What is meant is that, we can all be taught to bowl a bowl along a desired path, but no one can teach you to make that ball stop at a desired length, this is solely down to your touch, feel, co-ordination, and most importantly your sub- consciouses thoughts, which will work out the weight of the object you are holding, and how far it has got to travel, the type of surface it is rolling on, etc. and then signal to your arm how much back swing you will need to propel the bowl to where you want it to go, (intangibles). You will often hear bowlers say, they don't know why sometimes they can play brilliantly, and the next night have a poor game, (intangibles), we can never quite understand why this is, but we can learn ways, to help make us more consistent, which is all we can strive for, consistency is fundamental to the sport, and probably any sport. We will look at the mental side of the game in later posts, but for now, we will concentrate on what can be taught, which is a consistent delivery, which will enable you to bowl a consistent line, which is half the game.
We will assume that you have already been told what side of the bowl is the bias side, which side is your forehand and backhand, that you will be using the athletic style delivery, and that you are practising on your own.
It is important that you try and keep everything in line when you step on to the delivery mat to play, so begin by standing behind the mat, make a point of always starting from the same position, don't walk on from the side, remember we are trying to make your delivery stance a 'habit', so you don't have to think about it, 'just do it' to coin a Fraze. Walk onto the mat looking in the direction you plan to bowl, stand with your feet a small distance apart, so as to give you a stable base to start your delivery from. position yourself so you are pointing in the direction you intend to bowl, ie. forehand, or backhand. For now all we will be doing is delivering the bowl, not at any target, so take a comfortable step forward with your left foot if right handed, or your right foot if left handed, while at the same time bringing your bowling arm back to create a back swing, your non bowling arm should be used to steady yourself, and keep balance,bending down as you go forward, you should just about be able scrape the grass with your finger tips as your arm comes through. Release the bowl, as close to the ground as possible, and continue to follow through with your arm on the projected path. This is very important, so as not to 'pull' the bowl on release. A good practise is too imagine that your photo is being taken each time you deliver, and you need to hold the pose after delivering the bowl, this will make sure you do not get up to early, or snatch at the bowl as it is released, everything must be smooth, slow, and deliberate. practise this for several ends on your forehand, and again on your backhand, you can never practise your delivery style too much, it is going to be one of the most important aspects of your game, you must develop a smooth consistent delivery, which we don't need to think about, it is just part of you, the simpler you keep it the better, the less there is to go wrong with it over the years to come, just make it your own, and stick to it.
now you have mastered your delivery technique, it is time to learn how to bowl a 'perfect line'. You will need 2 extra delivery mats for this excercise if possible, if not anything of a similar size which the bowl will roll over. Take 1 mat and place it aprox 5 metres in front of the delivery mat, and aprox 1 metre out from the centre line of the rink, do the same both sides of the centre line. Now using your new super smooth delivery action, make this mat your aiming point, and with enought weight to reach half way down the green, try and roll your bowl directly over the mat, when you are able to do this with all 4 bowls on your forehand and backhand, move the mat froward to 10 metres and 1.5 metres out, and then 15 metres and 2 metres out. When you have learnt to do this consistently, you know that you can 'pick a line' and bowl it, now you just need to learn which line to bowl.
There are several different methods employed to determine line, some players will use a marker on the bank, some will use a marker on the green, whichever you choose make sure it is a permanent marker, not one which may be moved during the game, there have been stories of somebody having a brilliant game, using a bowls bag at the other end of the green, as a marker, only for the bag to be moved, or a leaf on the green only for it to be moved by the wind. The only problem with markers is that you will need to adjust in or out from your chosen marker, depending on the length of the Jack. Another method is to 'bowl to an imaginary arc', the arc of your chosen bowls will differ, but you will learn this with experience. On visualizing your chosen path to the jack, you will be able to determine the shoulder of the are, the point where the bowl will start to draw in, this is your aiming point, normally about 2/3 of the way along the draw line. If you can learn to visualize the path you are taking to the jack, before you bowl, it will be advantageous to your game in years to come, and as you start to improve, it will mean you can not only visualize the draw line required, but also the line you need to pick, when 'Driving' at the head, playing 'controlled weight', or the 'yard on' shot. Concentrating and picturing (visualizing) the line you are about to take, while standing on the mat waiting to bowl, will also help your sub consciouses mind feed in valuable data on how much weight you will need to bowl, but that is getting back into the intangibles of the game, and that is another lesson for another day.

The Different Bowls Models

2009-10-09T07:11:00.000-07:00

Currently there are 17 different models available on the UK market, most models being made in 2 weights, with 6 different sizes in each, and some models made with 2 different grips, WOW ! that’s means a possible 300+ combinations of model, weight, size, and grip, add to this 12 different colours offered by some manufacturers, and its well over 3000 combinations offered in the UK alone. Hence there can sometimes be a long wait for your particular colour bowl you want. In this blog I will try and guide you through each UK model, and what it has been designed to do. When choosing your model bowl, you must always consider,
1. Where you will be playing most of your games (ie your home club),
2. Weather playing indoors or outside, or if both what do you enjoy most, or where are you most competitive. Taking these into account you should always choose the bowl which will suit the majority of the games you play, unless you are able to afford more then one set of course.

Taylor Bowls Range (Glasgow, Scotland)

Lazer Designed to take a narrow even draw line to the jack, it will perform best on very fast greens, such as indoor, or fast running outdoor greens, normally would suit Lead’s and number 2’s. The most noticeable difference with the Lazer is its slimmer shape, which makes it very comfortable to hold for players with smaller hands. It is available in black colour only, and sizes 00 to 5, both medium and heavyweights. With the Taylor Progrip (dimple) no size 00 in medium weight).

Vector VS The original ‘Vector’ was introduced some 9/10 years ago to combat the ever increasing number of faster running indoor greens. It soon established itself as the No.1 best selling indoor bowl in the UK, it received a cosmetic makeover 4 years ago, and is now known as the Vector VS (vector sport). This bowl has narrow draw with a even draw back to the centre, it plays best on faster running greens, and would suit Lead’s or number 2’s, who are looking for a bowl which has a forgiving a draw line, providing you have learnt to bowl a consistent weight, these bowls could help improve your game. Available in sizes 00 to 5 medium & Heavyweight (no size 00 in mediumweight), Plain of Progrip (dimple). Black & various colours see www.bowlsworld.co.uk

Ace The Ace is the preferred bowl with top end International and County level bowlers. It is used by many of today’s top bowlers, and has been used to win many World Championships. It is a mid bias bowl, which makes it suitable for both indoor and outdoor bowling, it can also be used for any position of play. The consistent even drawl line lends itself well to the most accurate draw shot, running bowl, or all out drive. Available in sizes 00 to 5 heavyweight & Mediumweight, (no size 00 medium) Plain or Progrip, (dimple) Black & Various Colours see www.bowlsworld.co.uk

International Similar draw line to the Ace, slightly wider draw, slightly slimmer shape, most noticeable difference is the ‘crescent’ style grip, which is standard on these bowls, can be used indoors, but most players would agree to them being a little too wide draw, unless playing on a very slow pace indoor carpet. Available in sizes 00 to 5 medium & heavy weights, (no size 00 in medium), crescent grip as standard. Black & Brown, and Various colours see at www.bowlsworld.co.uk

Legacy SL A slimmer shape bowl, which makes it easier to handle, it has a wider draw, with a slight hook finish, designed for heavier pace surfaces, ideal on any outdoor grass surface. Can be used for any position of play, the most popular selling beginners bowl for outdoor bowling. Sizes 00 to 5 heavy & medium, no size 00 medium), progrip only. Avail. Black only.

Lignoid The original Taylor model bowl, traditional shape made to mimic the line of the old Lignum’s (wooden bowls), they take a wide draw line, with a strong hook finish, ideal on slower pace surfaces, good beginners bowl for outside, most recently lost its popularity to the Legacy SL. Sizes 00 to 5 heavy & medium, no size 00 medium), progrip only. Avail. Black only.

Henselite Bowls Range (Australian)

Dreamline Originally designed for the very fast greens in Australia, The dreamline satisfies the needs of competitive bowlers, it is ideally suited to indoor of fast running outdoor surfaces, it has a flatter profile and a narrower width, with the scallop shape grip, it will suit leads and number 2’s. Available in sizes 0 to 5 in Heavyweight black. And Red,Blue, Green, and Burgundy Colours.
Tiger II The Tiger II is a contemporary design of bowl with a gentle and predictable trajectory, it has a narrow to mid bias, It is highly suited to second’s, thirds and skips, who are playing on free running surfaces, that require a bowl that has a relatively strong finish to the draw, which will allow draw shots around short bowls in the head, but still has a narrower line. The ergo profile, with the scallop grip will maximize comfort and add precision to every delivery. A narrow to mid bias bowl offering both the experienced and new bowlers alike, the greatest potential range of shots. Available in sizes 0 to 5 Heavyweight only. Black, Red, Green, Blue, Burgundy, Galaxy, Planet Earth, Comet, Midnight, Ruby Rich, Austral, White/Red Speckle.
Classic II The Classic II was first introduced as a result of standardisation of the WBB Rules (at the time IBB) for the Game of Lawn Bowls, The Classic II is manufactured with a narrow bias and has less bias than the original 'Classic' bowl. It also features a distinctive finish (commonly referred to as a 'hockey stick' finish) which is reminiscent of the original Classic but without the wider draw of the Henselite Original bowl. Since its release, Classic II became the most consistent selling of the Henselite models in all states of Australia and New Zealand. This was due to its adaptability for bowlers changing from the old bias to the new. The Classic II, despite it's narrow draw, is very well suited to medium paced greens, because it is truly a narrow biased bowl, the Classic II is well represented on the faster greens of Australia and New Zealand. It also performs well on the faster indoor or carpet greens here in the United Kingdom. It is regarded, at all levels, and under all conditions, as one of the 'best performing' modern bowls. Available in Sizes 0 to 5 medium & heavyweight, Black, and colours Red, Blue Green, and Burgundy.
Tiger The championship winning ‘Tiger’ Bowl has taken the UK outdoor market by storm over the last 5 years, originally described as a ‘Mid’ bias bowl, it is felt by many to be a mid to wide drawing bowl, most suited to our outdoor playing conditions, and those requiring a wider drawing bowl indoors. It has a slimmer shape, with scallop grip, and the ergo profile with its self correcting properties, it is a very comfortable bowl to hold. Ideal skips and no.3’s bowl for all playing conditions. Available in sizes 0 to 5 heavyweight Black, Red, Green, Blue, Burgundy, Galaxy, Planet Earth, Comet, Midnight, Ruby Rich, Austral, White/Red Speckle.
Classic The Classic has derived from the original henselite supergrip/ championship bowl, it has gone through a couple of name variations through the years (ie Classic Deluxe), but essentially is still the same bowl with the renown ‘hockey stick’ finish, It was the most popular bowl on the UK market throughout the 70’s 80’s & 90’s, but has now lost some of its appeal to the Tiger. Ideal skip’s bowl on heavier grass green’s. Available in sizes 0 to 5 medium & heavy weights, Black Only.
Almark Bowls (Australian)
Almark Bowls came onto the market in the mid 80’s, with a bit of a ‘Bang!’, they became known for cracking in half, due to a faulty batch which was made, unfortunately this reputation did the brand no favors over the proceeding years, even though it was just one batch in the 80’s. The factory in Cumbernauld closed a few years ago, and now all production has been taken back to the Henselite Factory in Australia. The Edge model is very popular in Australia on their very quick greens.
EdgeThis is probably the narrowest drawing bowl available on the UK Market, it has the unique square grip associated with all Almark Bowls. Feels comfortable in the hand, would suit lead’s who play on very quick greens, on indoor surfaces, if you can’t play the ditch hand with these, nothing will !.
Sterling Slimline This Mid-Bias bowl has a very narrow profile, making it easy to hold, has the square grip, ideal for leading or number 2’s, very popular with smaller hand players, and beginners being at the lower price end of the market. Available in one weight heavy/medium sizes 00 to 4 Black, Red, Blue, Green, and Burgundy.
Sterling Gold The gold has a wider draw making it more suited to the heavier grass greens in the UK. It has the square grip associated with all the almark range of bowls. Ideal bowls for those on a budget, being at the cheaper end of the scale. Available in medium & heavyweights, sizes 00 to 5, Black Only.

Drakes Pride Bowls Liverpool, England)
Advantage predominately a leads bowl has a very narrow draw, suited to very fast playing surfaces, such as indoors, or artificial outdoor surfaces, made with dimple grips or plain, Heavyweight only. Sizes 0 to 5 Black and range of colours see www.bowlsworld.co.uk
Professional The best selling Drakes Pride Bowl, has been arounf for what seems like forever, but is still as popular as ever, probably for its easy to read line, it has a steady constant draw, and will play well on almost any pace surface you throw at it, a good all-round bowl, for any position of play. Available in medium & heavyweight, sizes 00 to 5 and some ½ sizes to order, dimple gripped or plain. Full range of colours available see www.bowlsworld.co.uk
Jazz The newest model added to the Drakes Pride range this year, it has a wider draw, more suited to outdoor play, but still has the constant draw line of the Professional, new modern design. Available in Heavyweight only, sizes 00 to 5, and full range of colours, see www.bowlsworld.co.uk

The Bowls Buying Guide

2009-08-21T06:09:00.000-07:00

First and foremost is the size of bowl that you choose to play with, it must fit your hand without being so big as to slip, but equally not to small so that it sits too far back in the hand, which leads to you coping the bowl out, instead of it rolling of the fingers. There are a few ways you can tell if a bowls is the right size for you. Firstly place the bowl in your hand that you would normally bowl with, place your fingers around the bowl in your normal 'claw grip' then extend your arm to arms length, at this point turn your hand upside down, you should be able to do this without the bowl starting to slip, and without your hand shaking. Taking this into account, you should play with the largest bowl you can execute this exercise with. As a guide the most common Gents size bowl is a size 4, a size 3 being the smaller hand gent, and a size 5 being the larger hand gent. most popular Ladies size is a size 1, with a size 0 being a smaller hand lady, and a size 2 being a larger hand lady, but remember this is only a guide it will greatly depend on the size of your hand, length, width, and strength of grip. Measuring your hand is unsatisfactory as you cannot determine if you will be able to handle the weight of the bowl you have chosen, this particularly applies to Ladies with long slender fingers, which upon measuring leads you to buy a much larger bowl then is suitable, because is has not got the width in her hand, nor the strength required. You will normally find players at your local club, will let you hold their bowls for this purpose, If you haven’t got a specialist bowls shop nearby.

Next is the weight of bowl, this is not quite so important, most bowls are made in a medium and heavyweight, and some slimmer shape bowls made in a heavymedium weight. The weight difference is very small only 3oz on a size 5, dropping down to under 1oz on the size 0 bowl, but surprisingly it is noticeable when coming to bowl. I would normally recommend a mediumweight bowl for outdoor grass surfaces, and a heavyweight bowl for indoor and artificial surfaces, mainly because the mediumweight bowl will get a little more turn at the end of the draw, which is usually a good thing on the heavier grass surfaces, and with heavyweights it is the reverse, just stoping them from getting a couple more rolls on the indoor surface, it can also help the bowl from being displaced so easily, particularly indoors. It is a popular misconception that the heavvweight bowl will roll further having the momentum to carry it on, not so we are told. From research we know that although the heavier bowl will be carried by the momentum in the first half of the draw, it will slow down quicker as it comes to rest, as the heavier weight begins to dig into the surface, of course the heavier or wetter the surface the more this will be noticeable.

Now the interesting part, well for me anyway. What make and model shall I buy ?, This is where your bowls specialist can really play a part in determining you go away with the right bowl for you. There are now over 15 models available in the UK, from 3 different manufacturers, then given the various weight, grip, size and colour combinations, there is hundreds of outcome’s. Taylor bowls are the oldest manufacturer, dating back over 200 years, they are based in Glasgow, Scotland, in the UK, they have 6 current models available, The Lignoid, Legacy SL, International, Ace, Vector VS, and Lazer. In Liverpool we have Drakes Pride, the only English bowls manufacturer; they have the Jazz, Professional, and Advantage models on the UK market. Then we have probably the most well known manufacturer, Henselite, they are based in Australia, and were the first company to develop a composition bowl as we know it today, it was developed in Australia with the help of a British scientist during the early 50’s to combat the heat from the sun, which was shrinking the wood in the old wooden bowls and having an effect on the bias.

You should first determine where you will play most of your games, is it indoors or outside, is the surface, considered fast or slow, are the end rinks a problem (being able to take enough green) what position will you play most of your games Skip, No3. 2^nd, or Lead. Armed with this information, your chosen Bowls Specialist should be able to steer you through the minefield of different models available.